Seville Diary Pt.1: Buenos días, España
Written January 2023 via journal. Photos via IPhone + disposable camera.
It is so beautiful here. From my hostel room window, I could see a dim light peeking through the alleyway inviting me into the chilly morning. The lack of sleep I retained from 29 hours of traveling and the Italian man snoring in a bunk bed next to me made it difficult to leave the comfort of a bed, but the curiosity of the city I had landed in last night trumped my laziness. I put on my jacket, brushed my teeth, packed up my $5 Goodwill suitcase, and ventured into the cobblestone streets.
First photo I took in Sevilla after passing through the alley
After weaving through buildings I finally turned the corner out of the dark alley. What splendor it is, the way the daylight hits Seville.
This morning the whole city smelled like fresh laundry, coffee, roasting meat, and cigarettes. Surely I looked ridiculous, gawking at the sights that the locals have become accustomed to.“Yes, our buildings are stunning and hundreds of years old, what of it?” I crossed the bridge to Triana, an old neighborhood of Seville with a large market, and stopped for breakfast. I found a little corner cafe filled with paintings of bull fighters and old liquors, only to casually discover from the waitress it’s been running for over 143 years. I sipped on two coffees and ate the most delicious omelette I ever had.
You have these strange moments when traveling alone where you suddenly think to yourself, “Everything is wonderful.” Maybe it was the casual and lovely dialect people have when speaking Spanish in this part of the country, or the amazing food and drink? I don’t know why, but I had that eureka! moment then. The chatter in the restaurants, waitresses carrying trays filled with little cups and bread, the hiss of the espresso machines, the giant cash registers ringing loudly as it opened and closed, a group of elderly men playing cards on a tiny table, a pair of women flipping through a newspaper, boys whizzing past on bicycles. Through this overwhelming mix, there was a sense of calm. Have you ever been in a bustling area filled with people and felt like you are a part of the noise, a part of what’s happening? I’m sure I stuck out like a sore thumb, the tourist American girl with her cheap suitcase and dirty walking sneakers sitting at the bar and taking a stab at ordering in Spanish, but sometimes while in a new city you get these brief moments of familiarity. Of “home”. My favorite thing about traveling is sitting in a new place and learning by taking in the noise, the sights and sounds and flavors. You learn how the people who have lived here their entire lives order their coffee, how they talk to the servers, why they prefer cream over milk, what they and their buddies are going to do that day. It’s one of the best experiences in life.
Though I am able to speak some conversational Spanish, I’m no expert. When my Spanish fails, the charades kick in. After breakfast, I stopped at a convenience store to try and buy a lighter. I could not for the life of me remember what “lighter” was in Spanish. After a few moments of trying to think, I instead decided to imitate lighting a cigarette. With my very convincing “chik, chik” sounds, the man knew what I wanted. Later I met my apartment host Ignacio and explored areas he recommended. The riverbank, the main Square, various tapas bars and cafés. Taking in the new people, new food, and new language, everything feels amazing. I can’t wait to experience more of Seville.
